Belt Loops

Well that’s not the best picture, but you get the idea, Belt Loops using the CPX900!

I have a folder to attached to my CPX900 but I was in a hurry; not wanting to march up the ol’ learning curve. So I started these belt loops using my normal proceedure. That is I cut a strip on grain 1.75″ wide and as long as I can get.  There’s usually a short section between the front and back pant leg, close to 18″ long that works well. Allowing for error, I cut two pieces that length.  Then I go to the ironing board. I have a cork board hanging next to the ironing board on which I hang tools frequently used with the iron.  The 1″ tape maker lives on that board.

If you haven’t seen these, Nancy’s Notions has a free instructional video.

Opened,folded Strip

I run my tape through, allowing it to form the folds while I’m pressing them.  Usually I go to the sewing machine and stitch both sides. My problem is stitching evenly along the edge. I’m sure to wobble along the line creating an amaturish looking strip.

This time the CPX was already set up for top stitching jeans. I wobbled at the sewing machine a couple of times — you can’t blame my Ruby.  Every machine has trouble with such uneven bulk . So I wobbled a couple of times and thought, “what about doing this at the CPX?”

I left the hemming guide in place (it’s usually on the CPX) but adjust it to help guide the strip under the foot.  Then I just stitched to the end. Inserted the next strip and stiched it too.

Amazing!  I was done in 2 minutes.


The back  (on top) doesn’t look too neat but it’s doesn’t get seen so why worry?  The front is acceptable, especially for a first attempt.  In the future I would want to cut my strips 1.25 or 1.5″ wide instead of the 1.75″. Other than that, this was an easy way to make belt loops. I definitely need to try out the folder.

Note: I make belt loops in strips and then cut to length. For this jean pattern, they are cut 3.5″ long.  Unused, or badly stitched pieces are discarded.


Whats In the CookBook

A One Page Description with sample strips:

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7 Responses to Belt Loops

  1. Joselina Huber says:

    Thanks for sharing. I have a CPX 1000. I live in two states, and do not use it often even when I am here. So here it sits in Hawaii mostly underused. Belt loops, purse handles, aprons ties. What a great idea. I will have to experiment making belt loops. Now I have to make pants, if only I was good at it. Yours look very good. Do you need a special tool to make the loops?
    Aloha from Josie

    • sdbev says:

      I apologize for missing the comments on this blog and being late to reply. You don’t need a special tool to make the loops, but it should help. I say should because I have one but haven’t used it yet. Once I take the time to use this folder, I may want multiples. Each folder (the tool you were enquiring about) folds to a specific width. So you need one folder for 1/2″ belt loops and another one for 1″ purse handles. Or you could get really creative and add multiple 1/2″ straps to your purses and 1″ belt loops on your pants.

      • No worries. I read your post again and got the idea. I want to begin making jeans now that I am in CA. I want to purchase quality fabric in LA area. Perfect time.

  2. Very nice. I haven’t thought of using the CPX to topstitch jeans/trousers but I will put it on my (very long) list of things to try.

    • sdbev says:

      So sorry I missed your comment. Yes by all means, load up the CS for topstitching. There are several individual jean-makers out there that purchased machines just for the top stitching. It’s not so much an issue with stitch quality (although the older machines make perfect top stitching through multiple layers of denim); it’s more a matter of convenience. Because of the process you end up switching needles and rethreading your SM multiple times. It becomes time consuming and annoying. I don’t have room to set up another machine (I keep the felter on the floor until using it) . The CS was the perfect solution for me. My one issue was following the sharp curve of the pocket. Solved that by adding the seam guide on the side.

  3. casey says:

    I have a 900CPX and I am having lots of issues with the machine and I am not finding many answers to my problems. Have you had issues with the underside of your stitch bunching up? My machine was producing a nice stitch and now (same settings) it is producing a lose top stitch and a mess underneath. I have tried rethreading, new needles, nothing seems to be working. Any suggestions? I am mainly sewing waistbands on leggings and such (so 2 pieces of fabric and the elastic). Again, it was making a nice stitch and now its terrible! Any suggestions? Your blog is the most helpful information I have found online yet. Thanks!

    • sdbev says:

      To be sure it’s not a machine issue, run your coverstitch on plain woven fabric — no elastic, no stretchy stretchy fabric. If the stitch formation is still wrong, your machine needs a trip to the repair shop.

      I’m assuming from your description: “loose top stitch and a mess underneath” that it’s probably just an issue with the elastic and fabric you are trying to use; and yes I’ve had these issues just not both at the same time. My loose top stitches occur when I don’t have the threads correctly in the tension disks. To solve that I pull back on the threads at the top. I can watch as the threads seem to sink into the tension disks. The mess underneath has had two causes. 1)Something wrong with the looper threading. 2) The fabric isn’t moving underneath the foot. I think that’s called feeding. Looper threading is corrected by completely rethreading. As for not feeding, I’ve gotten to the point of always trying to have fabric on the other side of the foot. If I’m hemming flat, that means using some kind of spyder at the beginning of the hem. A large scrap of fabric works well. With elastic, I put 2-3 inches underneath and onto the other side before adding the piece to which I’m attaching the elastic. With the belt loops, I figure on just wasting the first 2-3 inches of fabric like in this photo Feeding the belt loop passed the foot. One other issue -but it relates back to threading — I’ve had the looper thread get wrapped around something. One time it was one of the 3 silver guides; another time it managed to get knotted around the upper guide; and one time the thread got caught underneath the cone!

      If all else fails, I remove all the threads; get out the vacuum and clean the machine really really well all the time speaking nicely; and then rethread. I do have one situation which is uncorrectible but I have a work-around. My very-narrow, T-shirt, wrist-hems. I cannot hold them in place and feed correctly. Much as I dislike hemming flat, I do for these hems.

      HTH, please let me know how it turns out.


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