A Real Binding project

Yes it’s the same tank I shared pattern information yesterday. However, I decided to post my experience on binding here, in the 900CPX Cook book.


In case you had no interest in reading about Ottobre Design, let me repeat the fabric information.   I’m using a beefy jersey with 50% stretch.  The fabric is so beefy, that I first thought it was interlock. I took a chance with the binding. I did not fuse with an interfacing but I did spray starch and iron-dry 3 times before cutting my strips.


I used the 1-1/4″ binder this time because Debbie Cook dropped by and left more great information in the comments on my 8/28/3 and  8/4 posts.  If you misses her comments, take time to go and look.  Thanks Debbie for all the great info. Debbie, did you know I’ve paid for PDF’s with less information than what you provided for free?  I would have happily purchased your cover stitch information in PDF format. Yes I was able to print the information from my computer, but I would have loved to have had all that done for me.  –Just saying, I feel you have a very valuable product.


I think it was the combination of 3 coats of spray starch and pushing the CS further back on the table that made this a success.  Thanks for all who noted and recommended this change.  The binding had much less drag and I do think handled better. I did test and moved my binder several times trying to align my stitches.   Had I more experience,  I might have trimmed the the binding a little narrower.  As you can see above, the raw edge is not quite caught in the under stitching. The public side is good.

I also hemmed using the cover stitch.  After the effort of fitting, the jersey was curling badly.  Even 3 coats of spray starch didn’t solve the problem. I finally added Steam A Seam to the edge and glued the hem into place.  I did set up the hemmer to help me guide an even width through the CS.  I have to admit that the JHG works better than chipboard and slightly better than the magnetic seam guide I sometimes use at the sewing machine.

I attached the binding “flat”  which makes the application easier (I’m not sure if binding can be attached in the round).  To sew the 2nd shoulder and armscyes together, I referred back to Debbie Cook’s Post “Serging Bound Neckline“. This is another post I highly recommend reading and printing.  I needed the print so I could follow along at the serger.  While I don’t have closeup’s, I can assure you that her instructions worked really well for me.


Whats In the CookBook

Page 012 Sample of the 1-1/4″ binding

and copy of Debbie Cook’s Post “Serging Bound Neckline“.


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5 Responses to A Real Binding project

  1. Debbie Cook says:

    Thanks for the nice comments, Bev. Maybe one day I will put all the CS tutes together in one PDF. That would be handy. Right now I’m working on a laptop mostly and really need to replace my regular computer before I do that. Or at least load my graphics programs onto the lappie.

    I wouldn’t stress too much above actually covering the raw edge on the wrong side with stitches. I’ve found that our home CS machines prefer to have all the needles in the same number of layers of fabric, instead of straddling the raw edge. The straddling is a major contributor to tunneling because you are essentially altering the looper tension between the needles. And it’s the wrong side … who’s going to see it in normal everyday life?

    • sdbev says:

      Thanks for good advice. I noticed that Angela Wolf wasn’t bothered by raw edges either. Myself, I figure I can and will do as well as RTW or why bother? But yeah, I’ll take it a little easier on myself because, outside of the blog, no one but me is even going to notice.

  2. Debbie Cook says:

    Just keep in mind that RTW sewers use different coverstitch machines. 🙂

    • sdbev says:

      You were so right!!! After a few washes, the knit fabric rolls and I can hardly tell that my CS stitching was not spot on. The raw edges are a non-problem.

  3. Pingback: So Darn Cute | Sheers: Project and Work Book


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