<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Before I get into the JHG, I’d like to thank everyone for the comments. I try to reply to all comments. If I missed your’s it’s because I couldn’t figure out whether I’d replied or not. Using WordPress is an improvement for me (over Blogger) but I still have issues. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I hemmed the hard way (yesterday’s post) for months. It worked. Worked really good but was time-consuming. I was tempted to try accessories from the other brands or even generic tools, but I felt like I was too ignorant to make good choices. I was delighted to find this Hemming Guide (JHG)At KensSewingCenter
I think I paid $20 for it, but the suggested retail is $40.
I’m still hemming that pair of MSS shorts and decided to use the other leg to demonstrate the use of this new-to-me tool.
As with the first leg, I started by stitching side and inseams and pressing up the hem using my Dritz Hem guide.
I did not need the SAS (Steam-a-Seam) for use with the JHG but I still need to discourage the fabric from shifting around. Simple solution is 4 pins, one carefully inserted at each seam and 1 mid way between each seam. By carefully, I mean that I ensure that the pin penetrates exactly the stitching on both the hem allowance and the garment as the pin goes in from the back and returns to back.
Taking the JHG out of the packaging is not nearly as bad as some other packages. There were 4 see-though dots or stickers that needed to be sliced through. The chip board backing (which also contains the instructions) slides out of the bubble pack and the JHG falls into your hands. My package came with only 1 screw. The package says to use 2, so I borrowed a second screw from another accessory (to be shared in a future post). On the right hand side of bed of the CS, towards the front are 4 screw holes. I needed to use the right most set of holes.
The JHG is a little floppy, until it’s all tightened down. Yet I managed to line up my tool with the holes on the far right.
and get both screws inserted and tightened into place.
That did leave this front piece dangling, but I left it alone for a few more seconds.
The next step was to use Deb Cooks “Lazy Hem” technique to align the item to be hemmed with the needles of the CS after which I moved the fabric guide on the JHG towards the left until it lightly bumped the folded hem edge.
and tightened the screw which secures the fabric guide.
Next I removed the fabric, turned it outside out and placed it back under the needle except this time it’s positioned the way I want to stitch. Very easy, because the fabric guide of the tool helps me get the fabric into the exact place it needs to be. It works similarly but even better than the chipboard I was using in yesterday’s post. Once I dropped the needles and presser foot into place, I needed to lift the fabric to see how to adjust the dangly part whose name is a mystery to me.
I bring the dangly piece up into rough position and tighten the screw just enough so dangling is done. I don’t know whether to show the pic first and add description or give description first. So I hope your screen is large enough to see both pic and description.
I had to lift the garment so I could see the guide for the raw hem edge. It was easy and pretty quick to move the guide back and forth so that the raw edge fit perfectly inside the guide. Already slightly tightened, only a 1/4 turn on the screw was needed to secure this guide.
Then it’s a matter of arranging the fabric nicely and CS’ing in a circle just like I did yesterday with the chipboard guide. I do test. For this fabric I found the default settings were good except that even with pins, the top layer tended to feed faster than the bottom layer. Those used to differential feed would crank it into the perfect setting. I’m not so much of a differential enthuiast and my first thought was to loosen the presser foot. Either solution works although I feel compelled to admit that I felt a need to keep the 4 pins into place (removing them just as they were about to go under the foot.)
I serged at a steady speed, once again clipping the beginning thread about half way though. As with yesterday’s procedure, I aligned my beginning and ending stitches and clipped my threads when done.
The quality of the hem was only slightly different from yesterday. Without the SAS to nail everything in place, that quick jerk at the end also tightened the under stitches.
I was able to press that out first gently with my fingers and then a bit of steam from my iron. To my delight, it’s also invisible from the front.
I’m already in love with this tool. It saved me much time in not having to apply SAS. While SAS is not terribly expensive, I’m also pleased not to incur the expense of using it. I’m also tickled pink at how easy this, my very first try, was. I do expect with time to get quicker, not so sure I can get any better.
Note: Janome has released a 2nd hemming guide (maybe the reason I was able to buy the first at half price.) This new model, named Type 2 Coverpro is very similar to the Brother version (the version which almost convinced me to buy Brother instead of Janome.) Let me share a pic:
I’m not sure I would have purchased this version. It is $99.99 (really $100). It might eliminate the time needed to pre-press the hem into place if it’s a garment like my MSS shorts and need no further adjustments. At the same time, a garment which I must adjust the hem would still need to be pre-pressed and trimmed evenly. It’s a great attachment. Would be wonderful when sitting down and making many multiples. But having the one I have, not so sure I’d also purchase this version, too.
What’s in the Cook Book
Page 6 Picture of the JHG and meager Janome instructions.
Page 7 My abbreviated instructions for using the JHG